Fashion Week

NYFW AW ’14: Day Four

Day Four in New York and the snow is still heavy and the shows are becoming more summery. Today we’ve covered Luella Bartley and Katie Hiller’s takeover of Marc by Marc Jacobs, their debut collection for the brand soon to change its name. We’ve also reviewed the red carpet classics, Jenny Packham and Oscar de la Renta (early grad ball inspiration perhaps?) and looked at the all american gem that is Tory Burch. J Crew also features in todays round up was and is proving a winning hit with us Brits since opening up in Regents Street last summer, alongside the futuristic delivery from Rodarte.

 

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Marc by Marc Jacobs:

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley’s inaugural collection for the label was one of the most anticipated shows of NYFW, asserting a collection of rugged street wear fixtures infused with classic tailoring that didn’t shy away from bold prints nor revamped conservative touches such as their leather obi belts adding structure to stiff oversized-martial arts jackets. Strong Japanese influences in the way of traditional warrior applique, bold colour combos and eccentric silhouettes more akin to Asian design (think Yohji), elevated the label deemed ‘stale’ by CEO Robert Duffy last year before the British pair’s appointment. Lengths dropped to just below the knees, a masculine aesthetic ruling over the functionality of the collection. Basketball style footwear as well as dainty flats from an era gone-by reimagined the meaning of day-to-night wear and ‘gangster’ elements infused strength and toughness into the looks. ‘Revolution’ emblazoned on outerwear need be our only hint; these girls were warriors, revolutionising the female way of dressing and throwing out all our expectations; an absolute gem from New York and definite must-see.   AS

 

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Jenny Packham: 

It’s not often that I look at a show and think I’d want to own the majority of the collection, but today Jenny Packham was the exception. Every slinky piece oozed glamour and sophistication, it was as if the collection personified its favourite celebrity client: the Duchess of Cambridge. A festival of textures and colours, the pieces all epitomised the fun of wearing flirty dresses and feeling confident at any occasion. Burgundy silks, navy, floral-beaded pencil skirts and a feathered black shift dress were all key to this collection. With the Baftas and Oscars just around the corner, we’re likely to see more of these dresses straight from the runway to the red carpet.  JR

 

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Oscar de la Renta: 

Anybody wearing de la Renta is guaranteed to feel like royalty in one of his magical dresses and this was a collection that didn’t let us down. We’re used to designs from him that are on a similar scale to Zac Posen, so he threw the NY crowd a little when he offered up an alternative, masculine take on femininity. Wide-leg trousers, mannish tweed and even leather was a far cry from the usual red carpet looks we’re provided with, but nonetheless he just highlighted the new take on feeling feminine; feeling powerful, thus dressing powerful. His collection oozed confidence; in sexy boots or princess gowns, this show belonged in New York with the rest of the power players. Nothing says ‘bring it’ like a fierce biker jacket, but the added lace calmed the collection down back to princess perfection. Ballgowns, florals, blouses, silks and satins all came swirling down the catwalk, just as predicted to bring everyone on the frow back to their comfort zone. In keeping with other shows from the season, Oscar de la Renta drew attention to midnight blues, pastel silks and champagne golds for the next Autumn, Winter season.  JR

 

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Tory Burch: 

Jewelled tones and regal colours were marched down the catwalk in Tory Burch’s Medieval army inspired collection. Not one to shy away from risqué, knee high boots made a come back for the winter season, paired with short mini dresses in navy metallics and khaki quilted coats.  Bohemian dresses and thick woollen jumpers made for a cosy but sexy look, an effortless style that echoes the classic, laid back American look that us Brits adore about Tory Burch. Bomber jackets, furred collars and knee high socks all returned for another season – whilst paisley prints and art deco textures injected a new age into our upcoming  winter wardrobe.  JR

 

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J Crew:

For their latest collection, the team behind J. Crew cited the cabarets of 1920s and 30s Berlin as their primary inspiration. Throughout the collection this inspiration was visible but muted, a drop waisted dress here, a splash of vintage florals there and the occasional bow tie, the collection adhering to its classic American style which has made it such a success. The addition of a little bit of glitter, alongside the clashing colours and prints provides an extra dynamic to the collection hinting to an aesthetic of sophisticated exuberance.  HB

 

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Rodarte:

The design duo behind Rodarte are known for their experimental take on fashion. Having maintained a high standard of elegant, red-carpet worthy designs, and frequently designing for the A-List, this collection was always going to be a popular. But this collection was something special, and something different – the first show of the season to create a noticeable, internet-wide buzz. Why? Well, they put C3PO on a dress, and made it look damn good. The collection opened with an elegant, but expected array of geek-chic: round glasses and berets paired with high necks, high waists and an oversized elegance, school-girl proportions, redolent of the clothes that we were assured we would ‘grow into’. This being Rodarte though, these items were a little more special than schoolgirl, coats covered in glitter and eleganty lady-like dresses in pastel-tones suffused the collection which evolved through carpet-print gowns and off-the-shoulder Parisian chic to the closing evening dresses. The five final dresses were surely the cherry on top of a beautiful and quirky show. The Star Wars dresses with their embellished chiffon bodices and swirling silk skirts featured images from the classic Sci-Fi film, specifically: Yoda, C3PO, Luke Skywalker, the Death Star and a Tattoine sunset. Was this a success? Let’s say that the force is strong with this one. Fashion’s inner geek rejoices.  HB

 

 

Jessie Roseblade, Harriet Brown & Amrit Santos

Image Credits:
vogue.uk
Isidore Montag at www.fashion.telegraph.co.uk

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