Impact Style are kicking off fashion month with daily reports from the four cities to give you the edited highlights of the best shows in town. Day Two of New York gave us the hotly anticipated Victoria Beckham show, complete with full Beckham clan, and the all – american attitude of DKNY and DVF. Thakoon delivered with a collection that brought sheer elegance and romance to the catwalk. For street-chic and a college feel, we’ve reported on Opening Ceremony too.
This is a show where the audience almost equals the quality of the collection itself. In true Beckham style, none of them disappointed. I know the show should be about the collection but who can deny Harper her fully deserved Frow fame. The best part about the full Beckham clan arriving was the statement of support they gave out, Victoria Beckham wasn’t just a celebrity with a clothing line anymore, she was a force of global fashion domination and this was the collection that highlighted her transition from skin tight body-con to masculine tailored cuts. A true marriage of feminine textures with an androgynous edge, this collection had it all from white silk organzas and pointy brogues, to woollen dresses and monochrome pleated structures.
Never one to disappoint, DKNY spiced their label up through rebelling against the traditional norms of Fashion Week. Breaking out against the ‘model army’, DKNY used people that inspired and represented New York City to showcase their new collection. Rapper Angel Haze and socialite Hannah Bronfman were joined by regular men and women cast straight from the street to celebrate the diversity in culture and melting pot of identities that is the make-up of New York City. This was a show about embracing the revolution of ‘real’, which was expressed in the effortless style of their collection. The wardrobe was a collection any true New York ‘hipster’ would covet, all black with baseball caps echoed the home of street style that is DKNY – the true New Yorkers uniform. A quilted black parka, monochrome checked backpacks and hogan high tops were no great surprise from Karen, a little disappointing and already expected. The one surprise? A neon lace minidress – for flirty evenings in the ‘city that never sleeps.’
Diane Von Furstenberg:
DVF proved to be a headliner and show-stopper this season as she celebrated forty years of her label through an iconic collection. The show, entitled Bohemian Wrapsody was a celebration of her classic and iconic homage to the wrap dress. So much so that throughout the collection there were wrap cardigans and wrap blouses. The colour palette ranged from autumnal berries to cobalt blue and champagne golds. Von Furstenberg provided us with classic American styles from slinky dresses to willowy blouses and wide – legged trousers. Never to shy away, every piece of the collection was adorned with different prints from geometric to animal, all playing with different textures from velvet to fur. My personal favourite? The slinky brown and blue felt coat paired with a printed cobalt blue shift and the closing champagne number modelled by Joan Smalls.
Opening Ceremony boasted a range of silhouettes and prints, the collection effortlessly progressing through a palette of neutrals in sober cuts accented with daring touches (horizontal skirt slits and zip-off hems), to asymmetric pieces that injected cobalts and corals into the collection. Finger print contours off-set the geometry of menswear but also worked to exaggerate the fluid architectural structures that followed in women’s. The collection was also a play of textures – layering quilted jackets with sheer layers, crisp white shirts and polo necks. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim – the design duo behind the brand – mastered the art of tonal blocking creating a veritable impression of thrown together authenticity and wear-ability that would welcome a mix-and-match buyer as every look was comprised of beautiful standalone separates. The clean lines, androgynous tailoring and colour-when-you-want-it aspects of the collection have the potential for massive widespread appeal – definitely a promising second collection from the rookie brand.
The best way to describe the latest Thakoon show would almost certainly be elegant. The designer presented a sophisticated collection comprising clean cut, minimalist silhouettes, creating a mature and feminine aesthetic to the collection. However, where this show excelled was in the unexpected twists on classic elegance, flashes of neon florals and acid brights suffuse a palette of elegant muted tones. A modern reworking of the shrug embraces the models’ shoulders, turtle-necks and knitted drapery creating a very modern take on a wardrobe classic. Highlights included floral flocked bomber jackets and structured midi skirt. This is truly a collection for the modern woman: both sophisticated and experimental, classic and innovative.
Jessie Roseblade, Harriet Brown & Amrit Santos
Isidore Montag at www.fashion.telegraph.co.uk