LFW: Mary Katrantzou

This season, Athens born designer Mary Katrantzou has pushed the boundaries and created an overwhelmingly aesthetically pleasing collection based around extreme clashing prints. Her Autumn/Winter ’12 collection includes pieces ranging from structured coats, nipped in jackets, floor length gowns and bold blouses; the most exciting complete wardrobe.

The show started with sharp shoulders and a breezy colour palette, including a soft honey coloured cape, flowing from a blue printed dress. This was followed by a beautiful breezy silk dress with a lilac coloured bodice decorated with petals and gold sleeves. Her collection is immediately deemed utterly delightful by all viewers (a high number of which are already wearing Mary Katranztou for Topshop, illustrating the strong body of followers the contemporary designer has already established, which is set to rapidly increase after this season’s amazing, whimsical spectacle). The designs that followed included more figure hugging numbers, in the shape of bold mini dresses which carved a perfect hourglass silhouette, showing that daring, clashing colours can come hand in hand with femininity.

Katrantzou used  “Still life, crayon box and Victoriana” as inspiration for her current collection. All three of these influences are strikingly apparent in her designs. High collars evoke a sense of Victorian inspired fashion; vivid, bold, and playful colours illustrate the crayon box; and the use of physical inanimate objects which captured an essence of still life.

There was an air of brilliant madness to Katrantzou’s designs, with items such as the ‘pencil pencil skirt’; a pencil skirt quite literally made from bright yellow pencils. A full length dress imprinted with features of a garden maze was also presented, as well as a beautiful dress detailed with silver spoons. The quirkiness expressed in the detail of her collection ensures that the viewer is mesmerized, grinning, and left wanting to see more. There is a contemporary and cheeky charm to all of her pieces, perhaps explaining Katrantzou’s description of the woman who wear’s them as having a ‘liberated spirit and a strong sense of style’; anyone lucky enough to wear one of these pieces could not help but be extremely joyful, as just viewing exudes a sense of happiness.

This year is set to be an exciting one for the contemporary designer. Last year Katrantzou was awarded the Emerging Talent – Ready-to-Wear award at the British Fashion Awards 2011. This year, exciting collaborations with Topshop and Longchamp have been lauched, both encompassing her signature eye catching, fun and frivolous prints. There is also talk of ‘big developments’ for her own range, definitely something to look forward too!

Hannah Donald. 



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