Fashion Week

MFW SS’14: Gucci

Gucci next season epitomises all that means to be elegantly sexy – dramatic lengths challenged what the sheer fabric choices and cutaways initially suggested about the collection. Notoriously glamorous and never disappointing, Gucci surprised us this season, exploring the relationship between laid back sexiness and modernity.  

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With collections normally recognised as svelte and form fitting, next season we’ll see Gucci’s silhouette blossoming into billowing drapes that wouldn’t look out of place in a rebooted Studio 54. But the vibe wasn’t predictably retro; mesh layers in leisurely shapes – tees and bomber jackets – kept the look from being obviously feminine and lent the first half of the collection a practical, slightly androgynous feel. Strappy bralets peeping through added depth and dimension to seemingly relaxed styles.

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Despite the vague 70s vibes, the dropped waists and art deco contours that elongated figures harked even further back to the Jazz Age – on paper, drawing cues from such varied sources could potentially appear hectic but everything came together remarkably cohesively. Leather touches and lots of black toughened the look up and contrasted beautifully with the jewel toned accents that worked perfectly given the fluid nature of the fabrics. Freedom of movement was a key feature of this collection – drawstrings on kimonos and tassels on bags swung freely adding to the linear yet aqueous nature of the clothes.

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What’s interesting to note is Frida’s exceptional talent at avoiding the immediately discernible by adding subtle touches to create a new vision; for example draw strings could have been restrictive – and whilst on bralets they were – their undone nature on outerwear suggested an easy-going vibe that’s refreshing for Gucci, and hinted at a coy attitude towards the typically sexy appeal underneath.

It’s unimaginable to think of Gucci as anything but sexy but this season allowed for comfort, and stress-free movement which makes the idea of sexy dressing much more wearable and a hell of a lot less scary. Accessories were kept to a minimum except in the way of bags, speaking volumes more about this look’s practicality; all in all a brilliant offering for breezy summer days and a perfect look for lazing around beach side bars – make airy lengths barely tied with something fabulous peeking through underneath your summer staples.

Amrit Santos

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