Iona Parsons
Charity shops, thrifting, and second-hand shopping now stand at the forefront of the fashion world, allowing people to purchase preloved items for a cheaper price. But one pressing question we need to answer is: What really drives the second-hand shopper? Is it for the bargain, the aesthetic or due to ethics? Can a second-hand shopper belong to all these groups? Can they co-exist? Impact’s Iona Parsons debates what motivates the second-hand shopper to this beloved shopping practice, even against the backdrop of fast-fashion.
In recent years, as I’m sure you have all noticed, there has been a sudden overwhelming interest in second-hand shopping. Both charity shops and thrifting stores have gained popularity with an array of new customers, out of a newfound curiosity and desire to dive into the second-hand world. Of course, second-hand shopping is not a new concept or creation; having been popular since the 60s it has become clear that second-hand shoppers usually fall into two categories – bargain hunters or aesthetic enthusiasts.
It can be argued that in some ways Gen Z belong to the aesthetic enthusiast group. And the question we all seem to be asking ourselves is: why? What has sparked this sudden interest for Gen Z? This is partly due to what we see online, in the world of social media where trends no matter how big or small, seem to dominate our sense of self and identity. They are a constant in social media. And fortunately or unfortunately, they have gotten a hold of fashion, in particular second-hand shopping.
But it is also worth mentioning that Gen Z may not be the only generation that has hopped onto the second-hand shopping trend. Any age group is entitled to indulge in a trend, despite the overwhelming majority of the popularity stemming from younger generations.
WE CAN ALL ADMIT THAT WE LOVE TO INDULGE INTO THIS KIND OF EDGY, VINTAGE SECOND HAND AESTHETIC BECAUSE IT FEELS SO DIFFERENT AND PROVIDES US WITH A NEW SENSE OF STYLE.
This growing preference to opt for a preloved or vintage item as a result has caused us to lose this sense of loyalty, which we used to owe to department stores. It has been disheartening to see the shutting down of many of our beloved high street stores such as Topshop for instance. But the closing down of one market often opens up another – a common element of our society which has proven an equally harsh reality for those ordinary people who have become affected by this loss in the market, however a positive for the second-hand shops. 
It has come to my attention that this second-hand intrigue has caused what I like to call anti-fast fashion snobbery. I am certainly aware of the damaging and negative effects of fast-fashion, alongside its outright unethicalness, but I am not a fan of those who seem disgusted at the thought of somebody buying an item of fast-fashion clothing, just because they are so in touch with their own self-fulfilling sustainable choices. At the same time, I am not disapproving of anyone who buys second hand and their decisions behind it, I myself am a huge second hand shopper fanatic with the belief that the judgement of people’s shopping choices doesn’t belong in the fashion world. Fashion is a form of self-expression and everyone is entitled to dress how they want, purchase what they want and most importantly, wear what they feel comfortable in.
However, content creators are something that does need to be discussed. Whether that’s a video of somebody doing a haul of their top 10 charity shop finds or an OOTD video – solely featuring clothes that are thrifted, whatever it may be – it always comes back to one thing – the second hand. Some of this content – despite nobody really knowing one’s intention – does seem to exhibit a certain intention of style over substance. Do these ‘influencers’ or TikTokers really value the significance of second-hand shopping or is it all for the show of it – to adhere to their certain aesthetic? There seems to be a mutual understanding that yes, we can all admit that we love to indulge in this kind of edgy, vintage second hand aesthetic because it feels different and provides us with a new sense of style.
And of course, this is okay, because second-hand clothing and thrifting do have a chicness attached to it, and everybody is entitled to experience this. Moreover, I would like to further this by saying that social media is not the only way in which this debate has grown. Although we cannot disregard its influence. General conversation, chat amongst friends, spread of the word, coincidental increase in appearance of charity and vintage stores on our high streets may well have caused the spike too.
On the other hand, I want to address that not everyone – unrelating to what generational group they belong to – is a trend hopper or a sheep. Genuine second-hand shoppers who want to better the world and do their bit of good for the community exist. Varying reasons exist for their charitable choices. One major reason, one which I personally think is the most shared and popular is – affordability. Charity shops – especially during a cost-of-living crisis where we are continually battling the long-term effects of recession, offer a much cheaper alternative compared to the ridiculously overpriced clothing available in high street stores.
I am positive we have all been in Urban Outfitters and picked up a plain white tee, which feels like a piece of fabric or cloth and have glanced at the price tag only to be shocked to see a huge £30 staring at us in the face in black ink. Realistically, why would you buy a £30 top in Urban Outfitters when you can buy the same for a few quid in a good old charity shop?
I believe that in recent years, high street shops’ provision of good quality and stylish clothing has seen a decline. When having visited these stores, I have been unsatisfied with their stock – nothing stands out anymore, whether this is due to the competition they have with charity shops, the thrifting market or even places like Depop – in some ways, their clothing is not what it used to be. Having said this, what I have stated is not true of all high street shops – I still hold a few favourites, such as Bershka and Pull and Bear. Charity shop fanatics and enthusiasts exist – my mum being one of them. Where the enjoyment of visiting every single one on the high street and seeing what bargains they have in store for you is a rush. A feeling I’m sure we have all collectively felt at some point in our lives (my mum being at the top of the list). They are simply where the heat is at, at the moment and for the foreseeable future.
SUSTAINABLE AND ETHICAL PURCHASES CARRIED OUT IN CHARITY SHOPS IS ONE OUT OF MANY WAYS IN WHICH WE CAN ATTEMPT TO HELP THOSE SUFFERING AT THE HANDS OF OUR CONSUMERIST SOCIETY.
We must acknowledge the most important element of second-hand shopping – the act of charity. In a world where societal issues seem endless, ranging from poverty, illness and discrimination (to name but a few), it cannot be emphasised enough how crucial it is that we help out in any way we can. Charity shops simply do their bit for the world – supporting a wide range of remarkable charities which need our help and contribution as a society. There are second-hand shoppers who fit into this category – charitable and generous individuals. Secondly, as a society, we are becoming increasingly aware of the significance of being ‘woke.’ Knowledge about what goes on behind the scenes of the manufacturing of high street clothing – in short – the horrifying reality of sweatshops and child labour is something we are and must continue to be aware of. So, sustainable and ethical purchases carried out in charity shops are one of many ways in which we can attempt to help those who are suffering at the hands of our consumerist society.
In addition to all that has been mentioned here, upon my research, I thought it was necessary to mention these online outlets that provide second-hand stock, such as Depop and Vinted. They are simply another way in which we can identify the social media-enhancing effect of charity shop trends or those who prefer a cheaper and charitable choice. I’m all for reselling clothes online (myself being an avid Vinted seller) but what I find unsettling is when sellers grossly inflate the prices of second-hand shop items, particularly a practice on Depop. It goes against the very essence of second-hand/charity shops and could even lead to inflated prices in stores, putting off those who don’t have the means to buy. Charity shops are increasingly catering for a new type of shopper, more discerning and with decent disposable income, which goes against the model that we saw in the past;cheap honest clothing. Some would argue that higher prices mean more money for the charities that they are representing but the flip side of that is that people on low wages wanting affordable clothes are being priced out.
Additionally, White Rose which I’m sure we all know of due to it’s prominence in Nottingham city centre – (with Nottingham being its place of origin), is an example of a charity which confuses me. Despite its charitable donations to preventing genocide, with funds going towards Aegis Trust, it can be said to completely overcharge its customers. Charity shops have a right to sell cheap clothing, simply allowing people to be able to purchase affordable clothing, encouraging more donations towards the charities we hold dearest. Expensive clothing essentially discourages money being given to organisations which really need it.
So, the next time you see a performative man wearing a pair of tired grey and mustard yellow sambas paired with the baggiest jeans known to man (which are of course thrifted), be sure to think to yourself: bargain or aesthetic? Or are these interchangeable?
Iona Parsons
Feature image courtesy of Nik on Unsplash. Image license found here. No changes were made to this image.
In article image 1 courtesy of Nik on Unsplash. Image license found here. No changes were made to this image.
In article image 2 courtesy of Chinmay Wyawahare on Unsplash Image license found here. No changes were made to this image.
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