Impact Style takes a look at the standouts from New York Fashion Week this September, which showcased designers’ Spring/Summer 2015 collections.
The twins behind The Row consistently produce inspired collections that are design led rather than trend driven; this season is no exception – the collection verged on monastic but was far from conservative as ultra-deep V necks plummeted downwards into beautifully knotted sashes adding layer and movement to the clean lines of each look. The impeccable cut of these pieces simply oozed luxury; The Row is simple yet never simplistic and takes a far more considered approach to minimalism – a tailored shirt with a billowed sleeve or peplum, criss-crossed elegantly edges ‘smart’ dress into novel dimensions. A neutral palette of mustard and rust, navy and grey, bridged with crisp whites and delicate fawns in organza and canvas created the perfect fusion of organic and urban touches. Two-strap suede sliders, straight hair and glowing skin was all these looks needed; a modest luxury, and about as close to perfection as a collection can get. *Sigh*
To simply reference Safari to this collection would be far too reductive – yes, we had khakis, utility shirts and even the shimmer of certain fabrics hinting at subtle camouflage, but consider the utterly decadent jewel embellishment, the sumptuous suedes and taffetas and those daring primary colours contrasting beautifully against the neutrality of greens and mid-show, elegant and functional blacks. Put simply, it was a collection that put a smile on my face. To treat a countlessly revisited theme with playful yet regal details and outrageous and brave colour blasts is completely refreshing and unabashedly bold. Yet the collection remained totally wearable; beautiful separates including butter-soft leather leggings, classic tailoring and functional outerwear guarantee wide spread appeal. Ending in a beautiful array of gowns, the collection was styled flawlessly and offered up true variety bound by a cohesive spirit. Sure to be endlessly spotted on red carpets everywhere.
The newest addition to Donatella’s flock of protégés, Anthony Vacarello was charged with the Versus collection this season. The designer is known for effortlessly sexy looks delivered through masterful draping and fluid textures – the Versus collection was an expert fusion of Vacarello’s growing signature style and Versace’s established hallmark. A collection firmly grounded in black and daring mini-lengths, the sensual pieces were also a comforting exploration into Versace heritage; the Versace emblem and pattern featured as prints and even structural elements to hems – apparently enough time has also passed for homage to be paid to Liz Hurley’s notorious safety pin dress, albeit in a much more subtle fashion. Gold embellishment was developed into full-on metallic pieces; bomber jackets, blazers and long lengths added elegance – steeped V necks upheld the provocative mood – an easy commercial and youthful collection.