Holly Philpott
In recent years, food content creators have steadily been rising in popularity. From showcasing new places to eat, to sampling new dishes on the menu, they have proven to be the key to many aspiring restaurant owners’ successes. But what happens when these content creators are paid to create content for a restaurant, or are given discounted or free food? Holly Philpott investigates.
The previously blurred line of free or discounted goods and services in exchange for content was clarified in the UK by the Advertising Standards Authority, which enforces the use of ‘#ad’, ‘#gifted’ or ‘#sponsored’ on posts. It is a legal requirement aiming to give transparency to viewers, but the use of it varies considerably online.
For traditional food critics, such as Chetna Makan, the vice president of the Guild of Food Writers, food influencers are perceived to be unreliable and untrustworthy. In her interview with the BBC, she reflects on the growing number of influencers in the online world, as there are growing challenges to break into the traditional food industry (such as needing formal qualifications and training). Their lack of such qualifications could lead to poorly written reviews, which may negatively affect a restaurant’s reputation. She also remarked on how restaurants feed into this narrative, working with those who offer “over the top” content without the expertise to accompany it.
The role of traditional food critics is still vital in the industry, particularly when their reviews are made credible through thorough research and preparation. In an article for the Huffington Post, restaurant critic Taylor Tobin shared how critics conduct nuanced research into the dishes they try, and only write a limited number of words to make reviews as concise as possible. There are codes of conduct as well, such as waiting 60 days before reviewing newly opened restaurants and visiting at least twice to gain the most rounded perspective.
More than anything else, the complication of advertising standards online is what contributes to the so-called “Wild West” of social media most.
A comparative lack of knowledge or expertise is not the only thing standing in the way of standardised work from food influencers. More than anything else, the complication of advertising standards online is what contributes to the so-called “Wild West” of social media most. It may be a legal requirement to put ‘#ad’ or ‘#gifted’ after a promotional post to signal its intentions to a viewing audience, but not all influencers believe they should follow these rules. A 2024 EU study highlighted that 4 out of 5 influencers did not follow advertising regulations. Whilst this study applied to the whole social media industry, it can be applied to food influencers and highlights how content creators attempt to go under the radar with advertising.
This dishonesty is somewhat unsurprising, given that research from Daniel Ershov and Matthew Mitchell found that influencers intentionally choose not to disclose adverts, in order to seem as authentic as possible. Advertising language, which is markedly different to normal posts, may seem disingenuous or that the brand (or in this case, the restaurant) has put words into the influencer’s mouth. This could lead to a fall in likes or even followers. No wonder, then, that some food influencers may not want to disclose if they’ve been given free food or been paid by a restaurant to create content for them, for fear of appearing insincere.
There is space for social media in the food industry.
This does not mean to say that all food influencers should be tarred with the same brush, or that they should be thrown into the same pan (pun intended!). Chetna Makan raises important points, but there are influencers who try to adhere to moral and lawful codes of conduct, and aim to enhance the food industry as a whole. Cara Jackson (one half of @nifoodreviews), argues that she always shows her visits to restaurants with full honesty – and does not shy away from filming the low points. There is, in her opinion, a space for social media in the food industry, especially as influencers can help social media users choose new places to experience, whether it be a casual dinner out after a day at work, or a fine dining experience abroad.
Another creator, Brian Lee (who co-runs @righteoueats) said that the value in influencers’ work is “authenticity and immediacy”. When we see someone on TikTok or Instagram eat food at a restaurant, it feels “raw and unfiltered, as if you’re sharing that exact moment with them”. Its accessibility, closeness and sheer reach to users- which traditional food journalism does not always offer- is what draws viewers in. If done in the right way, it can be hugely beneficial to businesses.
We should also give credit to restaurant owners, who don’t always go overboard with content creators. Ashley French, who owns a restaurant in Belfast, treats visiting influencers as regular customers, and gives no discount or free additions to their meals. Owners like him prefer to gain credibility the old-fashioned way- with good food and excellent service.
Stating whether something is advertisement or gifted is not being disingenuous, as some influencers believe, it simply provides more credibility to their ability to work with businesses.
Finally, what about those pesky advertising regulations? For content creators working with agencies and managers, disclosing adverts and gifted products is fortunately a priority. The managing director of social media marketing agency Disrupt, Stevie Johnson, admitted that he was “astounded” at the EU study, as he thought failure to disclose was a “backward step” for the industry. He ensures that influencers in his agency are willing to comply with standards as they don’t want to “[pull] the wool over consumers’ eyes”. With an increasing awareness of regulations, and the consequences of not being upfront with audiences (i.e. fines), this ensures that standards should move in a better direction. Stating whether something is advertisement or gifted is not being disingenuous, as some influencers believe, it simply provides more credibility to their ability to work with businesses.
It is evident that the food industry is a complicated web of ethics, honesty and authenticity. Neither digital nor print media is better than the other, as they offer different insights into a restaurant’s food. One gives researched, nuanced criticism, while the other offers an intimate, walk-through of a first impression, with perfectly curated images and videos. While some content creators certainly need to follow up on advertising regulations and disclosure, and restaurants should aim to be as genuine as they can, there are benefits to having a social media presence for food criticism.
If both can work together in an open-minded, ethical way, then food journalism could become bigger and more relevant than ever, for both the creators and the consumers.
To conclude this in depth study, there is one final consideration to be made. In her article, Taylor Tobin suggests that food critics and content creators should collaborate. Journalists with years of experience, such as Makan and others within the Guild of Food Writers, could teach their knowledge to influencers, who could in turn improve their own validity as reviewers. Traditional critics could brush up on their own digital media skills with content creators, so their own print pieces could become more accessible and visually appealing (two qualities needed in an increasingly digital world). If both can work together in an open-minded, ethical way, then food journalism could become bigger and more relevant than ever, for both the creators and the consumers.
Holly Philpott
Featured image courtesy of charlesdeluvio via Unsplash. Image license found here. No changes were made to this image.
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