THE BEST LOOKS OF HAUTE COUTURE SS15
There are few designers who manage to create clothes as sexy and as elegant as Donatella Versace. I could have picked any of the 47 looks that walked down the Versace runway but the final cutout gown worn by Amber Valletta sums the entire collection up perfectly. The concept was “to go back to the shape of a woman’s body, which is curvy” and straight lines were banned completely. Everything from the suits to the dresses was body hugging and nodding to the natural sex appeal of curves. Very few beads were too be seen – a rarity in couture – which meant the cut had to count. And count it did. We will be expecting to see a lot Versace on the red carpet.
It would not be couture fashion week without another fabulous Dior runway. Dior is a brand that does not need to be explained – it embodies class, style, tradition and has in the past always stood for a certain “lady-ness”. So it might come as a surprise that Raf Simons’ inspiration for this year’s collection was David Bowie, who is renowned for his androgynous look and style. There was plastic, ribbon, stripes…. The collection stayed true to Dior and managed to completely blow our minds at the same time. In true couture style a lot of love and work was put into each design – the last two looks took 200 hours each to create – resulting in a collection that was light, modern and magical.
Elie Saab was bound to feature on this list. Noone really does couture quite as well as he. There were feathers, sequins, mini dresses, ball gowns, suits … in one word: everything! The collection was dedicated to the past of the designer. Everything that walked down the runway seemed to be from another galaxy – somehow not quite real, the fabric too translucent, the shapes too elegant and effortless. My favourite look was a cream, sheer suit, covered in sequin and completed with a fur collar. Elie Saab proved again that he knows exactly what couture is all about.
With a moodboard featuring Shakespeare quotes, pieces of Dante’s “Inferno” and paintings by Chagall, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli – the mastermind behind everything beautiful coming out of Valentino – were set for a stunning collection. This golden gown seems like something out of a dream with its shimmering top and sheer skirt with a line from “Inferno” stitched across it. The rest of the collection featured a velvet gown, a nod to Hungarian embroidery, deep red robes and so much more – enough to transport you into a fairytale.
Viktor & Rolf
Viktor and Rolf used three elements to create every single look on their runway: a floral print baby doll dress with smocked detailing, a pair of flipflops and a straw hat. But although there clearly was a theme every look was a master piece in its own right. Maybe not as red carpet ready as the other designers’ looks Victor and Rolf have definitely created something extravagant and unique. Featuring 3D additions to their dresses, hats bigger than the models and a lot of asymmetry, this show was a spectacular one and not to be missed in a best of list.
THE WORST LOOKS OF HAUTE COUTURE SS15
Despite my deep love for everything else in the collection this nightmare in yellow feathers is on the top of this worst of list. It looks more like a duvet (a very comfy one to be fair) than a dress and I can not think of one woman who would look good in this. More likely to be seen at a “big fat gypsy wedding” than at the Oscars this gown was a definite fail. But we will forgive him gladly considering the rest of his collection.
Another contester for worst dress on this years spring 2015 couture runway is this pink gown from Giambattista Valli. Looking more like a cross between a wedding dress and a particularly awful assortment of cushions, than an actual dress we don’t quite understand the concept or how it relates to the designers inspiration: A “dialogue” between Coco Chanel and Janis Joplin. The rest of the collection wasn’t as bad but sadly did not belong to our favourites either.
Jean Paul Gautier
Two words: camel toe. And nets. And those flowers ( I think they are flowers). And the trousers’ texture… Just everything. Jean Paul Gautier’s entire collection let me down a bit. He made it a big show and people loved the show but the actual fashion should come first. With a theme like weddings a lot more could have been and was expected. Naomi Campbell closed the show looking fabulous but only despite the cellophane and live orchids wrap she had to wear.
Jean Paul Gautier
I really did not want to feature the same designer twice in either list but considering just how awful is this cross between Cinderella’s ball gown and denim? It looks more like an art project gone wrong than fashion and hence deserves its place on the top 5 worst outfits. The styling of the model doesn’t help the outfit either – which although stunning tries to incorporate yet another style into the combination. Overall a big no.
With a heavy heart I am putting Chanel on the list. Although the collection as a whole worked and was as always genius this particular outfit does not. It looks like Karl got desperate and used his bathroom mat as a two piece. Credit were credit is due: The collection will probably sell like crazy and who am I to judge Karl Lagerfeld, but this look I dislike a lot.