After some memorable triumphs at New York, and a lot of buzz coming from Milan just a couple of days in, London has been somewhat of a disappointment.
Tom Ford seemed to be a fashion crowd pleaser but in my opinion, could be summed up as Slimane’s YSL meets Joan Jett. Given the cyclical nature that more or less defines the industry, no one’s expecting the invention of the wheel anymore; but how many times can the trench be reinvented? How often can a brand delve into the archives or examine their ‘DNA’? Regardless, we found a couple diamonds in the London rough.
NAZIR MAZHAR
Mazhar doesn’t merely equate to just another sportswear brand; there is a strong sense of authenticity that drives his collections forward. Epitomising the rougher edge of urban glamour that is permeating the pop scene (Rihanna has been spotted in his designs), the spirit of his designs doesn’t appear to be a gimmick or fleeting trend for the season – they form the basis of the brand identity.
This season, feminine touches in the way of flowing satins found unusual harmony against a backdrop of sports bras and elastic hems. Cape-like pieces effortlessly tied at the waist added a feminine multi-functional element to each look and speak of a commercial element to the collection; comprised of excellent separates, the collection permits the wearer a little creativity of their own. Flared legs hoisted on sporty hold-ups proved to be a success in innovation. Athletic, characterful women modelling the looks were refreshing on the fashion week scene and cemented the strength carried through the collection.
RICHARD NICOLL
Nicoll’s spring/summer next season was an experiment in undress; sheer fabrics, fallen straps and asymmetric outerwear teased at what lay beneath. Aquatic in texture and movement, the colour palette descended effortlessly from shimmery oyster hues and pearly pinks to rich navy depths. An iridescent jellyfish cloud emerged as the finale piece, sealing the maritime influence. Beautiful summer fabrics gently layered in wispy silks draped across the body created dimension in the float of fabrics. Practicality prevailed in the way of pretty gingham suits and easy knits – an ultra-cool and feminine collection, perfect for the next summer breeze.
Amrit Santos
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Images: Condenast
